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Mugs & Other Ceramic Blanks

We stock ceramic and China sublimation mugs, in a wide range of styles including Durham, Wycombe, Birmingham, Cambridge, Windsor, 12 oz Latte, 17 oz Latte, small and large espresso. Also money banks, travel mugs (stainless steel, and also the Eco ceramic travel mug), Wow mugs, glitter mugs, spoon mugs, glass mugs, coffee sets & more.

Due to the size of the range, we have now split the blank sublimation mugs category into various sub categories below. Hopefully this will make it easier for you to browse the available mugs & other ceramic blanks.

By the way we know that some of the categories above such as stainless steel travel mugs and water bottles are not ceramic, and that some of the products such as flower pots, cat and dog bowls and tree ornaments are not mugs - but we think this is probably the best way to sub categorise the products, rather than to completely separate them on the sublimation blanks parent category.

If you ever have a suggestion that you think would make our website easier to use, or anything you think would be handy on the website,  product suggestions or anything else, please email us. We're always grateful for suggestions and feedback.

Sublimation mugs are one of our best selling ranges of blank products for dye sub printing. We started out with the Orca coated Durhams initially, as these were the closest match we could find to the old TAMS Durham mugs, and we have continually increased the range over the years to include the Rhino coated Wycombes, and lots of other styles of Orca coated mugs, ceramic and Bone China.

Sublimation Mugs FAQ's:

What is the difference between Wycombe and Durham mugs?

Wycombe mugs are a couple of mm taller than Durhams, and the finger space inside the handle is slightly larger on the Wycombes. So you could say that the Durham blank mugs are slightly more dainty, but there isn't a great deal in it to be honest.

Other points to note is that the Durham mugs are straighter in the bottom couple of CM than with the Wycombe mugs, which have a bit of a taper. The inside of the Wycombe mugs are smoother than the inside of the Durham mugs.

Which is best, Orca Coatings or Rhino Coated Mugs?

As Harry Hill would say, only one way to find out... Actually we have found little or no difference with regards to the finish of the mug, or any difference in colour fastness. They both produce brilliant personalised / printed mugs, and they're both dishwasher proof.

How can I sublimate onto Latte mugs?

You will need a mug press with a latte heater band, or a latte shaped oven wrap if you're using an oven. We sell latte heater bands for our digital mug press, but we don't currently sell an oven wrap for Latte mugs unfortunately.

With our digital mug press, it takes 30 seconds or so (if that) to switch over from the standard mug heater band to a band for slim mugs, or to a Latte heater band. You simply unplug the mug press, unscrew the heater band from the digital control unit, slide the band out, slide the new one in, screw in the power, plug it back in & away you go.

What is the temperature & time needed for printing blank mugs?

It does depend on your mug press, and on the mug in question however for most mugs we recommend a starting point of 190C for 190 seconds, slightly less for Bone China mugs.

Medium to firm pressure, which basically means that you shouldn't be having to try hard to close the press, and you shouldn't be popping handles off, but also it shouldn't be very easy to close the press - it's just about finding a happy medium whereby you can feel that you're putting some pressure on the mug but not so much that you're smashing them.

Faded bottoms...

This is a common issue, and is mainly down to the fact that there is more surface area at the bottom to heat up, with the base, so it takes longer. Here are a few tips:

Put your mug in the other way around. By this we mean if you are putting your mug in with the base towards the right hand side, try putting it in the other way around.

The reason for this is that many mug presses have full heat from the left edge of the element, all the way to a couple of CM before the right hand edge, where the wires connect to the heater band.

So if this is the case and you put your mug in the press with the base towards the right, the base may not be getting quite as much heat especially if you are putting your mugs in with the base close to the right hand edge. So try putting your mugs in with the base facing towards the left hand side, and also try sliding them right up towards the left hand edge.

Warm your bottoms... Many people now stand their mugs on plate warmers, or on the top of their flatbed heat presses, in order to warm up the bottoms of the mugs. This does appear to help, and it makes sense because if the bottom is already warm then it won't take as long to heat up, and it should do away with the fading issue.

Increase the dwell time If the above doesn't help, try increasing the timing. We do sometimes find that certain images (particularly those with large blocks of solid colour) require a longer dwell time. Having said that, if you can solve the issue with one of the methods above rather than increasing the time, it may be a better idea in terms of production speed.

The image will not sublimate onto the blank mug, or only one colour will??

First ensure you're using sublimation mugs, with a polymer coating, and not just blank ceramic mugs without a coating.

If you're using coated mugs, are you sure you are using dye sublimation ink? It is actually fairly common now especially with people using Rhico printers, that people will accidentally purchase standard gel ink rather than Dye Sub ink.

It appears that some customers are under the impression that the Rhico SG 3110 and the other Rhico printers are specifically sublimation printers, and that therefore any ink they buy for these printers will be Dye Sublimation ink.

This isn't the case. If you see cheaper cartridges, then they are probably standard pigment gel ink for normal paper printing, and not dye sublimation cartridges - especially if they're offered from a mainstream printer supplier rather than a specialist dye sub supplier such as ourselves.

This catches people unaware at times because it doesn't happen immediately. When you replace an ink cartridge, there is still ink in the tube and the ink inside the cartridge doesn't enter the head until the reserve in the tube is used up.

Are you using dye sublimation paper? Seems a silly question, but it does happen from time to time that a customer will get there dye sub paper mixed up with standard paper, especially with paper such as Trupix which doesn't look all that different to standard printer paper (Texprint paper has the texprint logo all over the back so it's more obvious).

Have you got your mug press set to F or C? 190 F for instance is only 88 C, so if you have your press set to F instead of C, then that may explain the problem.

If you do have your press set to C, and you have the temp set to 180 or above, and you're pressing them for long enough (around 190 seconds for example, although it does depend on your press) then the next thing to check would be that the heater band is providing the correct temp.

There could be an issue with the press in that the temp displayed and the actual temp, are two separate things. This is rare though, and usually if an element has a problem it simply won't work.

If it turns out to be none of the above, speak to your mug supplier (which is us, hopefully), so they can investigate. If you are having a problem and even if you haven't previously purchased your mugs from us, give us a call anyway and we'll always try to help.



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